Top Ten Questions About Log Homes

1. What is the best log home company?

There are over 300 companies that offer log home kits and packages. Each is a little different than the others. But they are also much alike in that most have been in business for many years, offer a good product, have considerable experience, and have a stable of satisfied customers.

Log home companies can differ by log styles, wood species, building methods, floor plans, milling and drying techniques, warranties, customer service, package options, and pricing — just to name just a few. The good news is that there are enough companies out there to meet the needs of practically any log home enthusiast.

To summarize, there is no "best" company, in the general sense. However, there may be a best company for you, based on your own particular needs and preferences, and how well you feel a company fits your requirements. Refer to our article, Choosing a Log Home Company for additional information on choosing the right company for you.

2. What is the best wood type?

Like log home companies, wood species all have different characteristics. Some are more dense and sturdier, some less dense but more energy efficient, some are more insect resistant but still need protectant (like all wood types), some are more expensive, some shrink less, some accept protective stain better, some are less likely to crack (check) or warp, and some are more lightweight and easier to work with (lower labor costs).

Only a handful of the hundreds of different wood varieties are used for log homes. These are the varieties that have proven to be the most effective for the purpose. Of this handful, a particular log company may choose to work with only one or two.

Log home companies who use particular wood species have likely been using them for years. They understand the characteristics of each and know how each works in their homes.

So is there one wood type that is best for log home construction? Not really. If pressed, we might say that the cedars are generally superior — but the pines, the firs, the spruces, cypess, and some hardwoods are very close behind. Personal preferences regarding appearance and cost will likely be the real determining factors for you. See our article, Choosing a Wood Type, for more information.

3. Are log homes more expensive to build and maintain?

Yes and no. Log homes are not inherently more expensive than stick-frame homes to build. However, most log homes are custom homes, unlike the cookie-cutter spec homes built by developers using the same sub-contractors, same plans, in the same development — all of which cuts cost.

One-of-a-kind custom homes that are built to unique customer requirements will always cost more, whether they are log homes or not. Therefore, most log homes will cost in a range of 10% to 30% more than a typical spec home of the same size.

As for maintenance, log homes will generally require more maintenance than a brick, stucco, or concrete-siding home. In order to preserve the appearance and integrity of wood logs or siding, coatings of protective stains must be applied every few years.

4. What will my log home actually cost to build?

Building a log home is not so much different than building a more conventional home, except that the walls (and usually only the first-floor walls) are logs instead of "stick" framing. All other construction can be almost exactly the same as for any other home.

However...log home buyers don't want just any other home. They want cathedral ceilings, full masonry fireplaces, metal roofs, wrap-around porches, heavy timber railings and stairs, lofts, beamed ceilings, tongue-and-groove wood floors, energy-efficient windows and doors, and wooded lots with a view.

The cost of these custom features can add significantly to the cost of an otherwise simple home. As mentioned previously, you can expect the final cost of a custom log home to be 10%-30% greater than a similar spec home.

A more refined cost estimate will depend on exactly what custom features you want. Our handy Cost Estimator calculator can help you better define your final "turn-key" cost.

5. What is the best log style (profile)?

There are round logs, rectangular logs, half-round logs, milled logs, and handcrafted logs — and a number of variations of each of these. Your choice may be partially influenced by the style that is popular in your area. For example, large round logs are popular in the West, more modest rectangular ("square" or "dovetail") logs in the Southeast mountains.

Machine-milled logs can be hand-hewn to resemble handcrafted logs. Handcrafted logs can be hewn to shapes other than round. Milled-log homes can have contrasting handcrafted beams and accents on the inside. Conventionally framed houses can even have real-log siding for a log home look.

Some people don't like round logs because of the uneven exposure to sun and weather, and dust on inside walls. Others don't think milled square logs look authentic. Half-round ("D" logs) that are round on the outside and flat on the inside are a good compromise for many people.

There are other considerations as well when choosing a log style. To chink, or not to chink? Drip edge, or no drip edge? V joint or no joint? Dovetail corners or butt-and-pass? Tongue-and-groove or coped joint?

Once again, no one log style is best for construction of log homes. The best style is the one you like most, but make sure you also consider both aesthetics and practicality when making your decision. See our article, Choosing a Log Style, for more information.

6. Why are prices so different between log home kits?

Comparing prices from different log home producers can be maddening. The problem is that no two "kits" are exactly the same. Some are very basic, containing only the logs. Others can contain every pre-cut log, window, door, stair case, plywood sheet, two-by-four, and trim piece that you'll need to complete your house. And there is everything in between.

The secret to comparing kit prices is to fully understand exactly what is contained in each package, and attempt to compare on an "apples-to-apples" basis. Some kits might include random-length logs that must be cut at the site (lower package cost - higher labor cost), instead of pre-cut logs. Another variable is the quality of material being offered. If two kits both contain windows as part of the package, one might include high quality energy-efficient (expensive) windows while the other includes a lower quality (less expensive) product.

Generally, if you can actually work out a true apples-to-apples comparison of kit packages, you won't find prices to be tremendously different between companies in the same part of the country. However, there may be significant variations between the prices of companies that are located in widely separated parts of the country.

For more information on this topic, see our article, Choosing a Log Home Company, Part 2.

7. Can I act as my own contractor to save money?

Yes, you can be your own contractor. But the question is do you want to. And are you qualified? And do you have the time?

Although being your own contractor can save you 15%-35% of your total home construction cost, you should know what you are getting yourself into. You should know something about construction and building techniques, have some knowledge of local building codes, be very well organized, know sub-contractors in your area, be a tough manager, and be willing to spend a lot of time at the building site.

Hiring a general contractor who has experience in building log homes, knows sub-contractors, can manage finances, and has project management skills can easily be worth the money you think you'll save by doing it all yourself.

For more information on this topic, see our article, Be Your Own Contractor - or Not.

8. What log drying method is best?

Every log home producer has a method and philosophy of how logs must be prepared for the building process. The purpose of drying is to reduce the possibility of shrinkage, warping, checking, and insect infestation. It makes the wood more stable for construction.

Some companies advocate slow air drying, some prefer faster controlled kiln-drying, some say a combination of both is best, and some don't dry their logs at all.

Regardless of the technique, if it's not done correctly, it won't produce the desired results.

Although there are no published studies (to our knowledge) regarding the effectiveness of the various drying methods, it seems to make good sense that logs used in home construction should either be carefully air-dried for at least a year, or kiln-dried for a time that insures that the center section of the log has properly dried.

9. What log stacking and joinery method is best?

If you visit a log home show or browse log home manufacturer web sites, you quickly get introduced to the various methods by which logs can be joined together. Each method is designed to tightly attach one log to another in a vertical stack, and at the corners, so that no air gaps exist, even if the logs settle later.

Milled logs are machined in the factory to fit together properly at the home site. Handcrafted logs are individually fitted at the home site as they are stacked.

To attach stacked logs, companies use thru-bolts, screws, spring-loaded rods, or spikes — or a combination. Insulation between logs can be foam, flexible chinking, foam tape, or caulking material. Applied properly, each of these methods can be very effective. Improperly applied, even a good method won't work well.

Log home companies design their stacking and joinery systems to work with their particular log styles and construction techniques. There are no scientific studies that show one system is better or more reliable than another. So, again, you should go with your own judgment, knowing that there's little chance you'll make a bad choice.

10. What problems can I expect when building a log home?

Some of the possible problems you might encounter as you plan and build your log home are: financing difficulties (usually because the bank doesn't understand log homes), construction delays (for a variety of reasons), poor work quality (because of poor contractors and builders), cost overruns (primarily due to poor planning or mid-course changes to plans).

The key to minimizing the possibility of problems is to know exactly what you want, make detailed plans and schedules, realistically budget your project, line up financing well ahead of time, choose proven contractors and builders, and stick with your plans. Mid-project additions and changes are the potential enemies of any good project, and can turn a dream project into a nightmare.

Regardless of how well you plan, some problems should be expected. Simply deal with them if they occur and don't let them create unnecessary stress in what should otherwise be an enjoyable adventure.

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